Review: L'Eau d'Hiver, Lys Méditerranée & Angeliques Sous La Pluie

Editions de Parfums from Frederic Malle are exquisitelyly crafted fragrances by the world's most revered noses. I recently filled out a questionnairere on the website and received three 5-ml samples in the mail (all the way from France!). Here are my impressions:

1) L'Eau d'Hiver by Jean-Claude Ellena: I read Chandler Burr's review of this beforehand, and, immediatelyly I recognized the marine note, which he memorably referred to as a "touch of crab." Soon however, the whole composition took on a soft, powdery quality that reminded me distinctively of baby products, mingling somewhat uneasily with the seaweed still dancing subtly in the background. The dry down was soft and pleasant, the marine note all but gone. I came away respecting the artistry behind the fragrance, but felt that I simply could not wear it. I vowed to give it another try, and have given it several since, but still find it too strange for my liking. The other day, I was walking around my kitchen and could swear that I smelled L'Eau d'Hiver. I sniffed and sniffed and finally realized that it was my hands: I had applied baby oil gel to my palms after doing some gardening!

Notes: iris, honey, heliotrope, angelica and musk.

2) Angeliques Sous La Pluie by Jean-Claude Ellena: When I first applied this to my wrist, I thought "gin." It slowly began to take on more complexity as a peppery note introduced itself, then something reminiscent of anise, which could have been the angelica, and then a clear cedar embrace. If the opening is sharp, the dry down is comforting as the cedar and musky angelica warm together. I felt "okay" about this scent to begin with, but now I find myself craving it. It truly is a masterpiece.

Notes: angelica, juniper berries, coriander, musk, and cedar. (photo courtesy of Kendiala)


3) Lys Méditerranée by Edouard Fléchier: Out of the three, this one swept me off my feet. It took me right back to the tropics. I could feel the heat, the warm summer rain, and there, at the center of it all, was an exquisite bouquet of stargazer lilies, dripping sweet, perfumed water. When I wear this it makes me feel like I'm walking around on a sultry night in Bangkok, even when it's snowing out here in Colorado.

Notes: ginger lily, muguet, angelica root, orange flower, water lily, and musk (notice that there's no real lily in it). (photo courtesy of TTVO)